Saturday, August 28, 2010

The modern tradition of Japan (Tokyo and Kitakyushu, 22-26 August 2010)

What comes to our mind when the word 'Japan' is whispered in our ear?

My daugter would say ... Animax! Harajuku! Shibuya!
Some guys might say .... Honda YZR M1 Motorbike! Hidetoshi Nakata!
I would say .... a modern and expesive country!

Well, that's what I thought before I went to Japan last summer. It turned out that Japan is a country which is very modern with a well preserved tradition.

For instance, we would find skyscrapers in every corner of Tokyo.

Bold during the day,and glittering at night,However, when I asked my colleague where the centre of Tokyo ... the answer is "Area around the Imperial palace." The palace is open for public except for Monday and Friday. Unfornately I was there on Monday, but still got a glimpse of the palace beauty.
In this vast park, after Japan loose the WW II in 1945, many Japanese gathered there, bowed and paid homage to the Emperor, apologizing because they loose the war.

Besides the palace, Tokyo has many gardens whish is maintained well,and some shrines, including the controversial Yasukuni Shrine.The Yasukuni Shrine is controversial as the Japanese believe that all the souls of the Japanese soldiers, including the notorious World War II soldires, return there. Whenever Japan Emperor or Prime Minister prays at the Shrine, the whole world get angry!

All over Japan we still can find palaces from the Shogun Era like the one in Kitakyushu herewhich was opened for public to see and learn what hapened during the Shogun Era (Good that when I was at school I paid good attention to Japan history! .... So I was kind of connected to most items displayed in the palace).

Even many Japanese practice Buddhism, Shinto shrine still exist accross Japan ....Shinto is the indigenous spirituality of Japan and the Japanese people.

The transportation in Japan is very modern, from the local made vehicle (Toyota, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, .... I could go on forever ...) to the fast bullet train that can run 300 kilometers per hourhowever, there is still place for bicycles.Modern fashion has become 'a must'among the teenagers' and the youth's make up and clothing;

At Omotesando,Shibuya,The airport ...Let's see what Harajuku got to offer ....Colorfull, but I still don't understand why my daughter crazy over this Harajuku things though ....

However, with this modernism, we still find the Kimono sold in the prestige Ginza area.Yes, in Ginza.And this waitress serving japanese Food in Japanese traditional outfitWe almost forget the food aren't we? Yes, the famous Japanese foooood ....

With the invasion of McDonald, KFC and other so called modern junky food, the Japanese food is still unbeatable. It is an art of its own.

The appetizer,The sauce and spice,The main menu ... in this case the famous Tempura,What I love the most is they include the carbohydrate food at the end of the main dish. Good for diet eh ....And completed with a light dessert,Sometimes we get a touch of western idea in a bowl of ice cream.Not only the food, the clothing, the tradition; one time I saw a parking officer stood in the middle of the road to stop the coming raffic to allow the other vehicles got thru. Once he completed his job, before he left the road, he bowed to the coming traffic ... Wow, I bet I won't find this in other part of the world! I thought they just bow to the elderly or honored guests.

Well, Japan is indeed the country full of tradition. And, it is a proof that being modern does not mean we have to forget our root.

(About the price? If we shopped in Ginza or Omotesando, get ready to get broke. But Shibuya and Harajuku is OK for me. I got some nice teenager stuffs for my teenage girl and her friends. Souvenirs also availabe at the airport and the price is ok).

Monday, August 16, 2010

Following the trails of Indonesian independence in Surabaya (25 June 2010)

This was the spot. On 19 September 1945, two youngsters climbed the roof of Oranje Hotel (Also known as Yamato Hotel) and ripped the blue out of the Dutch flag. Leaving the red and white, the color of Indonesian flag, fluttering the sky of Surabaya. Later, the fighting between Indonesian and Allied force was inevitable.

At the end, Indonesia has the world recognizing its independence, after three and a half centuries of colonialism by the Dutch, British and Japanese.

I took Lulu and Lilo to Surabaya to re introduce myself to the city where I was born and also to help Lulu learning about Indonesian independence struggle first hand. To do so, no better place to start than staying at the one and only Oranje Hotel. Now, the hotel is called Majapahit Hotel, however it still keeps its original feature.

It is a beautiful hotel.In a cloudy morning, with some friends, we began our tour by visting Submarine Monument.The submarine was built in 1952 and involved in the liberation of West Papua from the Dutch. It was manufactured by the Rusian. In the old days, Indonesia was very closed with the Sovyet Union.

It is good that we could get inside the Submarine, we could feel how tight the situation was (and how uncomfortable it was). But the kids had a blast in it!!Then we went to the Heroes Monument or 'Tugu Pahlawan'.(Some Westerners may question: Why, in 1945, instead of welcoming them, Indonesian wanted the Allied force to leave after the Japanese surrendered. Well, we have enough hundred years having other people dictating us what to do. No more. Thanks for making the Japanese loosing the war though ....)

In the monument complex, there is a museum called 'Musium 10 November'. 10 November 1945 is a historic day for Indonesia, as on that day Indonesian fought its biggest battle after the independence 17 August 1945. In the museum we found diorama of the fighting, weapons, even old movies capturing the war.The sun was high, and because it was Friday, we have to go to the mosque to do our Friday pray. So, our next destination was to Sunan Ampel Mosque.

On the way to the mosque, we passed many parts of the city. Many buildings stood like telling the story on how the city has been struggling to keep its identity.We also went pass 'Jembatan Merah' or Red Bridge.Even now it is very crowded and not so red anymore, the bridge kept the memories of the battle between Indonesian and Allied force. A lot of people loose their life on that bridge.

Then we arrived at Sunan Ampel Mosque. It was originally built in 1421 and having Javanese and Arabian architecture.As it was Friday, the mosque and its area was packed with people who wanted to do Friday Pray.I really wanted to join the pray, but I did not have my praying robe. So, while waiting for my friends, I took the kids and my other friend to a nearby cafe.

I don't know, somehow the call for pray seemed to encourage me to think, 'Here I am, in a historic mosque. There may be no other chance for me to be here. It would be a pity if I dont do my Friday pray here.'

What I did was, I asked the cafe owner to lend me her praying robe and asked my friends to look after the kids in the cafe. Then I ran back to the mosque, thru the crowd.Finally, I could have my Friday pray in the Sunan Ampel Mosque.

Our last stop is the Suramadu Bridge. The bridge connects Java and Madura islands. It is 5.4 kilometres long, the longest bridge in Indonesia, some even says the longest in South East Asia.The project was led and constructed by Indonesian. What an accomplishment, one among many that we have achieved during the 65 years of independence.

I love you Indonesia, keep it up.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Bromo Indonesia: The 'Why' and the 'How' (26-28 June 2010)

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These are some reasons why people come to Bromo:

The beautiful viewThe sunriseThe Bromo craterMoreover, in the area, you can also go to the dessert, savanna, Makadipura Falls, climb Mount Semeru (The tallest mountain in Java), horse riding and other activities.

What about the ‘how’? How to get to Bromo? How to stay there and other ‘how’ relates the Bromo visit. Well, based on my own experience, the asking around and some readings; here are some info on Bromo.

What is Bromo?
Located in the Tengger Caldera at 2329 meters, Bromo is an active volcano part of Tengger massif with mountains such as Semeru, Pananjakan, Batok and others. The Bromo highlands are famous for its great view and cultural heritage, because it also become an important centre for traditional Hindu Javanese beliefs. Bromo is the most popular tourist attractions in East Java, Indonesia.*
The closest village to Bromo is Ngadisari, so most people will stay in Ngadisari before visiting Bromo.

What clothes to prepare?
During the night to dawn, the temperature could drop to zero celcius. So, if you plan to see the sunrise, better have the right clothes.
However, you can buy mittens, hats and other articles there with good price; and rent the jacket as well.

How to get to Ngadisari?
For you who need privacy may rent a nice wagon (e.g. Toyota Innova) from Surabaya for around 600,000 Rupiahs nett includes driver. The trip will take around four hours.
However, if you feel like saving money, go to Probolinggo (Closest town to Bromo) and then hop on the public transport in Probolinggo Banyuangga Terminal to Ngadisari. It will cost you around 20,000 Rupiahs. Sorry, I don’t know the rate for bus from Surabaya to Probolinggo.
Otherwise, drive yourself there and be your own driver!

The view from Surabaya from Bromo is also worth considering ....

The Muddy city of LapindoOld buildings .... I like the roofs better than the whole house :-)The hills and the mountains …
Where to stay while in Ngadisari?
The nicest accommodation (That I know of…) is Java Banana Lodge. The lowest rate is around 750,000 Rupiahs per room night. The higher rate? …… I don’t even want to imagine it!Middle and budget rate hotel is also available. The local also rent their house and rooms.
Where to eat?
There are many places to buy food. Good for tourists … ans of course good for kids … Otherwise, you can always buy from the hotel.

How to transport around Bromo area?
You need a 4WD vehicle to go to the mountains. If you don’t have your own car, you can use ‘Ojek’ service (Motorbike taxi) or rent a Jeep. One Jeep fit for up to seven medium size passenger.(Please note that the Jeep is the 'Red creature'.... not the 'Black and white creature')

However, walking around Ngadisari can be done on foot.

What’s the transport rate?
From Ngadisari to Mount Pananjakan (Best place to see the Sunrise), Bromo crater and back to Ngadisari; the standard Jeep rental is 275,000 Rupiahs include driver. Some people use Ojek and pay around 100,000 Rupiahs.

If you want to travel with Jeep just to the crater and return, the rate is 165,000 Rupiahs.

What about the Horse Riding?As the horse riding is done from Poten Temple (A very old temple) to the bottom of steps of Bromo crater. Return rate is 125,000 Rupiahs. One way is 60,000 Rupiahs.

If you feel like walking and dying in the middle of your walk and thinking a horse will save you ….. You can negotiate the rate :) But please be gentle … Bromo people are very nice and polite, so spend a bit money would be nice.

What mostly become the ritual?
It is better to arrive at the hotel before dark so it will give us time to rest.
When arriving the hotel, book the Jeep at the hotel to take to Bromo or if you prefer motorbike, you can ask the hotel as well. Once the vehicle is confirm, have your dinner and sleep.

Later, you will have a wake up call at three in the morning. Please dress up as recommended and meet up with your Jeep driver (they usually wait at the hotel). The jeep will take you to Mount Pananjakan View Point to see the sunrise. Don't be surprise to see so many sunrise hunters there.Finish viewing the sunrise? Do not forget to take picture of surrounding mountains and pictures of yourself and family too.Then, the driver will take you to see the Bromo Crater. The Jeep will drop you not far from Bromo mountain and Poten Temple. You may choose to walk or ride a horse to where the bottom of Bromo steps are located.(Look up, feels like going up to heaven? ...)

If you wish to ride a horse to the crater, please bring something to cover your mouth and nose as the area is sandy … And the horses do ‘their business’ every where …

To get to the top of Bromo Mountain, you have to walk up the 250 steep steps. Tiring, but the view from the top is breath taken. Can you spot the Poten Temple from the picture?After the crater, with extra Rupiahs, you may ask the driver to savanna, dessert or other part of the National Park or just get to know the people of Bromo
So, what do you think? Put Bromo in your next vacation plan and experince the beauty!


*) Part of info is sourced from Java Banana Cottage brochure