Women of Hajj: The Americans, the mother in law and the socks (Madinah and Mecca, Saudi Arabia 28 October-23 November 2010)

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When we talk about four millions people attending Hajj pilgrimage to Saudi Arabia in 2010, maybe half of them were women.

Some came by herself and some came with their family...And they come from many part of the world.

From Africa with their colorful fashionably clothes ...From Indonesia …From the nearby middle east countries…Even from China …(Love your smile sister …)

Yes, many women, many backgrounds, many stories.

I have a chance to learn from them even by a small talk between prayers. Ya, ya, ya, I should be praying but when we were about two hours sitting next to each other, we could not help to chat.

Some chats and encounters actually touched me and even changed me.

A. An ‘enlighten’ from Iran
I met Hosnia, a bright Iran women, when I was in Nabawi Mosque of Madinah.At first. we had a short chat, very short because the pray started after that.
The next day I met her again at the mosque yard.This time, the conversation took a bit long.

Hosnia had a very well knowledge of Islam and Hajj. Much much better than me. She had the idea that Hajj is not all about going to Saudi Arabia and does the rituals. Moslem who goes Hajj should also learn about the universality of Islam, the brotherhood among Moslem and Hajj should change the way Moslem live after returning home.

Then she asked me if I understand the meaning or the philosophy behind all the rituals we did during Hajj. Well, embarrassedly I said I did not know all of them.
Then nicely she explained to me about it. One of them is about Thawaf, one of the rituals I liked to do but frankly I did not know its purpose.

Thawaf is a ritual to circle Ka’bah, the house of Allah SWT, seven times. The circling is done anti clockwise.

“We circle Ka’Bah anti clockwise, just like the earth circles the sun. It represents that our life evolves around Allah SWT and for Allah SWT only. Whatever we do is because of Allah SWT,” she said. It really touched me, thinking what a big ego I had been.

Before she left, Hosnia gave me some praying books. The good thing is, even she is from Iran, the books are in English.

Thanks Hosnia.

B. A Malaysian hit me on the head!
For many years, I have been having bad sentiment against Malaysian, I got carried away by political and social issues between Indonesia and the neighboring country. I used to think so negative about these people, well at least until a little incident took place at the grand mosque, the Al Haram.To get a good spot at the grand mosque, Ka’Bah view, we have to get to the mosque ground floor and to get the spot we had to be there two hours before praying time. That day, I was an hour away from the noon pray. The mosque ground floor was full.But I tried my luck.

Once I got to the mosque, I put my praying mat next to a middle age lady. She was friendly. But later a Woman Guard asked us to move as she said we were on the walkway. The lady and I moved to other space and put our mat, but we got moved over again. I was scared a little because it started to get very crowded. But the lady held my hand and took me to other spot and said “Let’s put our praying mat and pray.”

Before we even got a chance to pray, we were asked to move again. It was a bit chaotic at that time. In the middle of it, the lady still held my hand and took me to other spot and again asked me to pray. That’s the time I recognized her accent. She was Malaysian. A Malaysian held me around the mosque to get a spot for praying. As I put my mat and started praying, I could feel the tears went down my check.

‘God, forgive me for being so foolish all this time. For judging people only based on their origin, for being so hateful. I have been no different with a racist, the kind of people that I don't want to become’

Yes, this Malaysian lady sure did ‘hit' me on the head. She made me ‘sober’ again.

C. The Americans
After having an emotional encounter with the Malaysian, I went up to the second floor. I should have been there in the first place as it was not so crowded.

A nice young girl sat next to me. We said 'Hi' and then I notice the stars and stripes the American flag, on her badge.

I could not help to ask “Hi, you’re an American?”

“Yes, I am from Arizona” she said.

Let's say her name was Soraya. She told me how happy she was being in Mecca as it was easy for her to practice Islam. “It was hard to practice in the US. Some of us have to take off our headscarf” and she continued in tears “Even my parents does not approve me going Hajj.”

I did not know what to do. I just told her maybe her parents concerned about her safety. Then I showed Soraya the picture of Warren and Peggy, my American parents who visited me in Kalimantan a couple weeks before I left for Hajj. I told Soraya how wonderful they are and how I had a great time living in America.In this picture, Warren and Peggy were having dinner in Cak Ali, a famous seafood restaurant in Sangata, Indonesia.

As she looked at Warren and Peggy’s picture, Soraya kept saying “Subhanallah, Subhanallah ..” I was so happy to hear her said that.

Subhanallah means "Glory to God" -- this phrase is often used when praising God or exclaiming awe at His attributes, bounties, or creation.

I hope Soraya keeps her faith to her country. Yes, for now maybe it is hard being there as a Moslem. But as we find unfriendly people every where, there are more friendly and kind people in the world. America is full of kind people. I know it, because I know many Americans that I love dearly.

D. The Mother in law
One afternoon, on the ground floor of Al Haram, I pray next to an Indonesian lady named Nisa. She was originally from the island of Madura.

Nisa came to Mecca with her family including her mother in law. She seemed to be a devoted person as she took care of her in laws very well while at the mosque.

We have been there around four hours and it was an hour away from the evening pray.I was in great condition because I had coffee before leaving the hotel. But not Nisa, she was so sleepy. She kept spraying water to her face to stay awake. To lie down on the floor is not a good option, as it was not proper and also once we fell asleep we have to wash up again. The ablution place was outside the mosque.

So I asked Nisa to rest against my back. She did, but only for a couple minutes. I asked her what happen, because I though she was comfortable back there.

“My mother in law is staring at me,” she said. I looked at the in laws, yup, the mother was staring at us. At that moment I did not blame Nisa for being so devoted and I was thankful that I came to Mecca by myself :)

E. The Socks
It was four o’clock in the morning in Al Haram mosque, I had the best praying spot facing Ka’Bah.There was a lady prayed next to me. She was from Australia.

We talked between prayers and she said that Indonesian Moslems were very fashionable. I agreed with her.

Then she said, Indonesian also good in making many kinds of socks. I looked at my socks and I had to agree with her again. Indonesian women went Hajj with many kinds of pair of socks; Ordinary socks, the sock with no stitches at the toes so they could be pulled up when we wash our feet, or even the socks covering each of our toes like gloves did.

Then Mrs Moosa, that’s her name, said. “What if later I give you some money so you can buy me some Indonesia socks and send them to Australia?” She gave me her address in Sidney.

You know what, I did not have to do that because later I found that I still have a new pair of socks and I did not need them. So, I give them to the Aussie sister. It was an easy delivery as she live in the same hotel with me!
I am so happy I can go to the holly land to do Hajj and happier that I got acquaintance with these great ladies.

I even found some good friends there.
(Bu Jumaiyah, Imel, Pak Taher, Alpi, may Allah SWT bless you all).

Some friends to share the cold floor of Hajj Terminal of Jeddah Airport.(Thanks for the photo Puti …)

Well, I guess the Hosnia was right, Hajj is not all about rituals and prayers. It is way beyond that. It changes the way we see the world, it changes the way we feel as a Moslem and it should change us to a better person.

Selangan Laut, a humble Atlantis (Bontang, Indonesia -12 October 2010)

On the flight back to Sangata, I spotted Selangan Laut village from the plane window. This fisherman village is built on the sea, remote from the mainland.

I have been to Selangan Laut once. I had Warren and Peggy, my American parents, coming with me. I was a bit worry that the humble village might not meet the expectation of the Americans. But I was wrong.

On a Tuesday in October, we left Sangata around 1030 AM and arriving Bontang an hour later. Then we headed to Tanjung Laut area,There, we met Pak Jamhur, the boat owner who would take us to Selangan Laut. We paid around 400,000 rupiah for the boat return trip, including having Pak Jamhur as our guide while we were in the village.

Pak Jamhur was a very proud man, but that Tuesday was not his day. His boat steering failed. He had to move us into his friend's boat and then he took us to Selangan Laut.It took 20 minutes fro Bontang to Selangan Laut. We passed the outer of Tanjung Laut.View a gas tanker being loaded. For those who don't know, Bontang is one of the world biggest producer of natural gas.Then we arrived in Selangan Laut.It was indeed a humble village. We took time to walk around the village and found some interesting scenes.

The "Main Street",the locals,the house,including the one with 'Keramba' around it.Keramba is a way to raise fish by putting net in the water stream and have the fish grow in it. This is the main income of the Selangan Laut villagers besides seaweed and salted fish.There was also a mosque and a primary school.

I wondered what would happen with the kids after they completed the school there, would they move to town to further education?

While walking, we asked the villagers what happened during high wave or typhoon. "We stay at home and pray," answered one of them. Well, I really hope no high wave or typhoon visited us while we were there....

It was almost 1 PM when we decided to have lunch in one of the villager's house.

We ordered four serves of grilled fish. The fish was caught from the Keramba, so it was nice fresh grill fish. We were so hungry, we finished all the fish!We felt even better when we were charged only 250,000 Rupiah for the wonderful meal and the drinks.

On the way back to Bontang, I asked Warren and Peggy if they wanted to visit another village, they said 'No'. They did not want to spoil the good memory they had in Selangan Laut. I kind of agree with them.

The modern tradition of Japan (Tokyo and Kitakyushu, 22-26 August 2010)

What comes to our mind when the word 'Japan' is whispered in our ear?

My daugter would say ... Animax! Harajuku! Shibuya!
Some guys might say .... Honda YZR M1 Motorbike! Hidetoshi Nakata!
I would say .... a modern and expesive country!

Well, that's what I thought before I went to Japan last summer. It turned out that Japan is a country which is very modern with a well preserved tradition.

For instance, we would find skyscrapers in every corner of Tokyo.

Bold during the day,and glittering at night,However, when I asked my colleague where the centre of Tokyo ... the answer is "Area around the Imperial palace." The palace is open for public except for Monday and Friday. Unfornately I was there on Monday, but still got a glimpse of the palace beauty.
In this vast park, after Japan loose the WW II in 1945, many Japanese gathered there, bowed and paid homage to the Emperor, apologizing because they loose the war.

Besides the palace, Tokyo has many gardens whish is maintained well,and some shrines, including the controversial Yasukuni Shrine.The Yasukuni Shrine is controversial as the Japanese believe that all the souls of the Japanese soldiers, including the notorious World War II soldires, return there. Whenever Japan Emperor or Prime Minister prays at the Shrine, the whole world get angry!

All over Japan we still can find palaces from the Shogun Era like the one in Kitakyushu herewhich was opened for public to see and learn what hapened during the Shogun Era (Good that when I was at school I paid good attention to Japan history! .... So I was kind of connected to most items displayed in the palace).

Even many Japanese practice Buddhism, Shinto shrine still exist accross Japan ....Shinto is the indigenous spirituality of Japan and the Japanese people.

The transportation in Japan is very modern, from the local made vehicle (Toyota, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, .... I could go on forever ...) to the fast bullet train that can run 300 kilometers per hourhowever, there is still place for bicycles.Modern fashion has become 'a must'among the teenagers' and the youth's make up and clothing;

At Omotesando,Shibuya,The airport ...Let's see what Harajuku got to offer ....Colorfull, but I still don't understand why my daughter crazy over this Harajuku things though ....

However, with this modernism, we still find the Kimono sold in the prestige Ginza area.Yes, in Ginza.And this waitress serving japanese Food in Japanese traditional outfitWe almost forget the food aren't we? Yes, the famous Japanese foooood ....

With the invasion of McDonald, KFC and other so called modern junky food, the Japanese food is still unbeatable. It is an art of its own.

The appetizer,The sauce and spice,The main menu ... in this case the famous Tempura,What I love the most is they include the carbohydrate food at the end of the main dish. Good for diet eh ....And completed with a light dessert,Sometimes we get a touch of western idea in a bowl of ice cream.Not only the food, the clothing, the tradition; one time I saw a parking officer stood in the middle of the road to stop the coming raffic to allow the other vehicles got thru. Once he completed his job, before he left the road, he bowed to the coming traffic ... Wow, I bet I won't find this in other part of the world! I thought they just bow to the elderly or honored guests.

Well, Japan is indeed the country full of tradition. And, it is a proof that being modern does not mean we have to forget our root.

(About the price? If we shopped in Ginza or Omotesando, get ready to get broke. But Shibuya and Harajuku is OK for me. I got some nice teenager stuffs for my teenage girl and her friends. Souvenirs also availabe at the airport and the price is ok).